The Highest City in the World - No Oxygen, Crime, Gold (No Law) 🇵🇪

High in the Andes mountains, at an altitude of over 5,100 meters, lies La Rinconada, a city perched above the clouds. This is considered the most dangerous and highest human settlement in the world, with an oxygen level 50% lower than elsewhere. Life here is harsh, marked by crime, mercury pollution, and a lack of law and order, all driven by the pursuit of gold.

The Journey to La Rinconada

The expedition began in Lima, the capital city on the coast. From there, the journey continued to Puno, situated at 3,800 meters. Spending two days in Puno was crucial to help the body acclimatize to the extreme altitude before heading to La Rinconada. Coca leaves, commonly used in the Andes to combat altitude sickness, were part of this preparation.

As the ascent continued, the effects of the altitude became noticeable. At 4,000 meters, a severe headache set in. The landscape transformed, with snow-capped mountains visible on either side. The air grew thin, and the body struggled to adapt.

Life in the City of Gold

Upon arrival, the reality of La Rinconada was stark. The city is overwhelmed with garbage, a consequence of many residents living outdoors or staying for short periods to mine gold. The water sources are contaminated with mercury, and the air is polluted, a far cry from the clean mountain air one might expect.

Mercury is used to separate gold from rock, a practice that is globally banned due to its extreme toxicity. It pollutes the air, water, and rivers, eventually entering the human body. The lakes in the area have a metallic, mirror-like sheen due to the mercury.

Despite the dire conditions, hotels and gold exchange shops are abundant, catering to the influx of people hoping to strike it rich. The city operates outside the law, with crime, armed robbery, and kidnapping being common.

Key Takeaways

• Extreme Altitude: La Rinconada is over 5,100 meters above sea level, with 50% less oxygen than normal.
• Mercury Pollution: The use of mercury in gold mining contaminates the environment and poses severe health risks.
• Lawlessness: High crime rates, including robbery and kidnapping, are prevalent.
• Harsh Living Conditions: Lack of basic services like sanitation and clean water.
• Gold Mining: The sole driver of the city's existence, with mining operations dominating the landscape.

Inside the Gold Mines

The journey into the gold mines involved navigating treacherous paths. The miners, often working in teams of four, share 50% of the gold they extract with the mine owner. A team can extract around 50 grams of gold per week, earning approximately $3,000.

Women, known as 'pallaqueras', search for gold in the leftover rocks outside the mines, as they are forbidden from entering. Local beliefs attribute the mountain's protection to a sleeping female spirit who gets angry if women enter the mines.

Safety is a major concern. Warning signs are posted everywhere, and entering a mine without permission from the owner is forbidden, with dire consequences for trespassers. The miners themselves appear exhausted from the demanding work.

The Reality of Daily Life

Daily life in La Rinconada is a struggle for survival. There is no proper sewage system, and waste is often visible in the streets. Some residents have makeshift homes, staying for only a few months before moving on due to the lack of basic amenities.

Even simple comforts like a hot shower are scarce, with only a few designated spots available. The low oxygen levels significantly impact the body, causing shortness of breath and increased heart rate as the body tries to compensate.

Despite the dangers, the pursuit of gold continues. The miners return from the depths of the mines to a celebratory reception, as if returning from a perilous adventure. The gold is then processed and sold in the numerous exchange shops scattered throughout the city.

The city's appearance changes dramatically after dark. With over 100 people reportedly armed, the night brings an increased sense of danger. There are also reports of human trafficking, with young women lured from other cities with promises of work, only to have their identities taken and be held captive.

Adapting to the Environment

To better withstand the harsh conditions, the team adopted the attire of the miners. The belief is that luck, rather than experience, plays a significant role in finding gold. 'Abuelos', or ancestors, are invoked for good fortune. Offerings of fruits, alcohol, and cigarettes are made to these spirits.

Many residents do not have permanent homes in La Rinconada. They commute from other cities, working from Monday to Thursday before returning, as life here is unsustainable. Those who are lucky might build a simple home, which can cost between $1,000 to $2,000, and stay for a year or two.

After the arduous work in the mines, it was time to leave this challenging environment. The experience in La Rinconada is a stark reminder of the extreme conditions people endure in the relentless pursuit of wealth.